By Ewan Pate, farming editor

WITH ALL the publicity that surrounds supermarket dominance of the retail food trade it is easy to forget that there is a thriving independent sector operating in the high streets.

There is no greater champion of this type of shop than David Craig, managing director of Robertsons in Brook Street, Broughty Ferry.

Also operating from Union Street, Dundee, Mr Craig has no qualms about taking on the supermarkets and winning.

Primarily a butcher, Mr Craig has expanded the scope of the Broughty Ferry store to include a delicatessen and cafe.

The major multiples may have 70% of the red meat trade but he is certain that the remaining butchers can hold on to their market share.

Pointing out that there are now no independent green-grocers in Dundee, Mr Craig feels that the butchers may be more resilient.

“Those who are left after the BSE and e-coli scares are the best and will survive,” he said.

“Local government must see that choice remains,” he stated, referring both to licensing arrangements and the readiness of planning departments to approve supermarket sites.

Obviously there is a huge attraction to local authorities with income from rates, but Mr Craig believes they also have a duty to encourage smaller businesses in the heart of the communities which they serve.

Beyond his support of the independent retailer, Mr Craig also has an absolute commitment to Scottish meat.

He insisted, “There is no way I will sell anything else.”

That must be music to the ears of beef, lamb and pig farmers, who spend so much time struggling, against the tide it seems, to encourage multiple retailers to give the same sort of unequivocal support.

“I know it is a boost to Scottish farming but our customers do want us to buy home produce.

“It is up to independents not to waver and to encourage better standards.

“We need the best product and the best knowledge of how to handle the meat.”

These are not just platitudes. Buying for Robertsons, Mr Craig spends over one third of a million pounds a year with his principal supplier, Scotch Premier at Inverurie.

His lambs also come from the same source through their Highland lamb plant at Dornoch.

Further supplies come from Mathers, also at Inverurie.

As to his favourite carcase, he favours a Charolais cross Angus.

He finds a pure Angus rather too small in the joint.

Healthy eating is becoming more of an issue now.

“People want to eat meat, but it mustn’t be too fat,” he warned.

“We prob-ably over-trim now, but customers do not want too much fat on sirloin steaks or in mince.”

Mr Craig is sure that good quality mince should be one of the strong points for the independent butcher and also, of course, hanging the carcases for long enough.

“Hindquarters have to be hung for three weeks. Don’t cut corners because you only get out what you put in.”

Interestingly, Mr Craig is finding that more of his customers are asking about the meat they buy and looking for cooking advice.

He is a great advocate of eating in the home and believes that educating young people about cooking techniques should be encouraged.

“People are looking for a balanced diet. They know it is important and the vegetarian option is less obvious now than it was.”

He gives credit to Quality Meat Scotland for helping to advise consumers with recipe cards and other promotional materials.

Mr Craig firmly believes that QMS does a lot of good work but stresses that butchers have to be pro-active.

They have to ask the promotional body what it can do to help and then work with them.

Such an approach would counter a tendency for butchers to regard QMS as being too farmer orientated.

“Butchers are at the sharp end of the farming business,” said Mr Craig, underlining his vision of a profitable partnership across the Scottish food chain.