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Sales unravel for Kinross cashmere firm Todd & Duncan

Todd & Duncan MD Iain Cormack at the facility in Kinross.
Todd & Duncan MD Iain Cormack at the facility in Kinross.

A Kinross cashmere firm that supplies some of the world’s top fashion houses saw sales fall 25% last year due to the pandemic.

Todd & Duncan dyes and spins cashmere and lambswool yarns for some well-known names in high fashion.

With global retail closures and fewer events, the high-end fashion market has been badly affected by Covid-19.

‘Significant efforts by employees’

Managing director Iain Cormack described the impact on the business, which has traded since 1867.

“We ended 2020 with a decline of 25% over anticipated volumes which is due to reduced demand from our customers following the Covid-19 pandemic and reductions in the footfall in our customers’ stores,” he said.

Todd & Duncan MD Iain Cormach at the facility in Kinross.

“Covid-19 resulted in the factory being closed for six weeks with a phased return thereafter.

“Significant efforts from the factory employees ensured a safe Covid-19 environment for our employees.

“Thanks must be extended to all our staff who have been very proactive at ensuring a safe social distancing environment.”

No redundancies required

Workers were supplied with reusable face masks supplied by some of the firm’s Scottish knitting customers.

Mr Cormack said a reduction in the workforce last year was due to the decline in sales.

Cashmere wool being spun onto reels and being put through the manufacturing process at Todd & Duncan.

At the start of last year the manufacturer had 200 staff but this has fallen to 185 workers.

“This reflects the impact of reduction in sales volumes since Covid-19,” the managing director said. “No redundancies were required.”

Recovery expected in 2022

The factory at Lochleven Mills is now operating at full capacity.

However, Mr Cormack predicts 2021 sales volume will be similar to last year.

He hopes the vaccination programme will lead to a recovery in the high-end fashion market next year.

Todd & Duncan MD Iain Cormack at the facility in Kinross.

“Even though we operate at the high luxury end of the cashmere industry the ongoing global pandemic and the resulting reduced footfall in retail is expected to last throughout 2021,” he said.

“An improvement is anticipated during 2022 as the world recovers following the global vaccination programme.”

Challenging trading conditions

Newly filed company accounts for the year ending December 31 2019 show a slight increase in sales in the last year of trading before the pandemic.

Turnover was £27.6 million compared to £27.4m in 2018.

Higher cost of sales led the company to record a pre-tax loss of £478,000 compared to a £1.6m pre-tax profit in 2018.

Cashmere wool being spun onto reels and being put through the manufacturing process.

Mr Cormack, who has led the firm since 2012, described the trading as “satisfactory given the challenging market trading conditions”.

“We passed on price reductions to our customers following a reduction in the raw material costs which resulted in some reduced margins during the year,” he said.

Change in ownership

The accounts also reveal a change in ownership.

On December 23 2019, Ningxia Zhongyin Cashmere Company Ltd’s 100% holding in Todd & Duncan was sold to Ningxia Zheao Enterprise Management Partnership. The sale price was not disclosed.

The ultimate parent company is Zhejiang Xinao Textiles Inc, a Chinese wool and cashmere company listed on the Shanghai stock exchange.

“The transfer of ownership has been extremely positive for Todd & Duncan and
we look forward to working with them long into the future,” Mr Cormack added.

Todd & Duncan state its production uses methods that are true to the ways of the past.

The firm claims the water from Loch Leven helps to open up the cashmere fibres, resulting in consistent colour.