David Kinnes, head chef at the newly-refurbished Rufflets Hotel in St Andrews, tells Caroline Lindsay what good food means to him.
Q Desert island food?
A It has to be calamari, perfect for a dessert island, nicely marinated and cooked over a fire pit on the beach.
Q Favourite TV chef?
A Nigel Slater – he’s a TV chef who cooks simple food very well and also writes great books.
Q Favourite cook book?
A Canteen Cuisine, by Marco Pierre White. The recipes can still grace a rosetted kitchen today some 20-plus years on since it was first published.
Q Favourite ingredient?
A Salt and pepper. Chefs can’t live without it, and they can make or break a great-tasting dish.
Q Most hated ingredient?
A Gravy browning is the worst ingredient that you can ever have in a professional kitchen. It should be banned.
Q Perfect dinner guest?
A My wife and Escoffier (if he was still alive) – what a combination to have at your dinner table. It would go on into the wee small hours along with a few tipples!
Q Favourite kitchen gadget?
A The microplane grater is, for me, the best and simplest piece of kitchen gadgetry. You can now get them with all sorts of blades and graters, and they’re great for everything from cheese and veg to truffles.
Q Favourite music to cook to?
A It would have to be something slowish like Eva Cassidy, Over the Rainbow or You Take My Breath Away.
Q Perfect menu?
A West Coast langoustines served simply with garlic butter, Highland wagyu beef, duck fat chips, béarnaise sauce, for main course. Isle of Mull cheddar, Brie de Meaux Madame Donge, and a good glass of red wine for the dessert.
Q Favourite country for food?
A My favourite country for food would be Kalkan in Turkey – the local restaurants cook and use simple ingredients full of robust flavours, and execute their dishes very well.
Q Favourite chef, alive or dead?
A Keith Floyd – such a charismatic person. He cooked some stunning in dishes all over the world and set the benchmark for TV chefs today.
Q Favourite culinary season and why?
A Springtime because you have wild leeks and wild garlic, along with Jersey Royal potatoes and of course Glamis asparagus.
Q Salt or pepper?
A It has to be both – see above.
Q Favourite herb?
A Coriander because it’s packed full of flavour, great with soups and Indian cooking.
Q Favourite spice?
A Cardamom known as the Queen of spices, adds so much flavour to certain dishes.
Q Favourite way to cook the humble potato?
A Buttery mash with loads of seasoning using Rooster potatoes.
Q Favourite go-to recipe if you’re in a hurry?
A Gnocchi, garlic, mushrooms, chopped parsley, dash of cream, rocket – easy dish to do if you’re in a hurry.
Q Favourite naughty nibble?
A Dry roasted peanuts, with a naughty G&T.
Q Favourite health food?
A Quinoa, super food which can be easily be adapted for savoury and sweet dishes.
Q Ideal picnic dish?
A Warm pork pie with homemade piccalilli – the perfect picnic dish.
Q Ideal BBQ food?
A Marinated ribeye steak, loads of salad and buttery potatoes.
Q Are you critical of the food when you’re dining out?
A Yes, I can be. As I get older my expectations rise and in my humble opinion there is no room for poor food and service.
Q Do you tip in restaurants?
A Only if we get good customer service and the food was great.
Q Top tip for failsafe cooking?
A Keep it simple, don’t over complicate things, let the natural flavour of your main ingredient shine.
Q Worst cooking sin in your opinion?
A Not tasting the food they are making; even if it’s something you make time and time again you still need to taste it every time.
Roast rump of Perthshire Lamb, braised lentils, pancetta, button onions, apple and elderflower chutney, wilted greens, Madeira jus
Serves 4
Ingredients
125g braised Puy lentils
100g diced carrot
100g diced celery
100g diced onion
100ml chicken stock
150-160g lamb rump
70g button onions
30g pancetta lardons
90g wilted greens (spinach, kale, fine beans, asparagus)
4 tsps of shop-bought apple and elderflower chutney
25ml lamb gravy
Directions
Soak Puy lentils in water preferably overnight.
Sweat finely diced carrot, celery and onions in a pan until soft, careful not to discolour, add Puy lentils and stir on low heat for approx 5/10mins, add chicken stock and cook for a further 15 mins or until the lentils start splitting. Leave aside to cool.
Season lamp rump, and seal in pan, cook in oven approx 180 degrees for approx/gas mark 7 11-15mins. Once cooked leave to rest for approx 5 mins, before carving into two.
In a hot frying pan add button onions and pancetta and cook until golden brown, add greens to pancetta and onions – once wilted leave to one side.
Place puy lentils on to plate, then add greens, pancetta and button onions, followed by the lamb on top, add 1 teaspoon of chutney on the top of lamb, serve with lamb gravy.
