This week, Jamie Scott talks about one of his favourite fish: mackerel
For my column this month I want to express my love for one of my favourite fish: the humble and beautiful mackerel. What a great fish it is. It’s very inexpensive to buy (I hate the word “cheap”), healthy and rich in omega 3 with very little fat. And it has got to be one of the best-looking fish as well with its amazing blue and silver shine and deeply exotic vertical stripes on the backs and forked tail.
Mackerel are found in both temperate and tropical seas, mostly living along the coast or offshore in the oceanic environment. We are lucky enough in Scotland to have them in abundance along the east and north coast when the season is right. I am very fortunate to have a couple of amazing fish suppliers so as soon as they have some available we get them into restaurant.
I also have a source who line-catches them in exchange for some lunch at the restaurant – a great little trade off. The wonderful thing about mackerel is how versatile it is – you can grill it, fry it, bake it, steam it, cure it, eat it raw or pickle it and every technique works really well.
One of my personal favourites is a escabeche, a Latin American dish basically meaning marinated and cooked in an acidic mixture and sometimes coloured with pimento or saffron. In my version we poach the fish very gently in the mixture, cool it down and leave to marinade in the fridge overnight.
I also love it as pate with some hot toast and pickled gooseberries. This works better with smoked mackerel fillets or the peppered ones you get in most supermarkets or small fish mongers. Basically, blend in a food processor, three parts cooked mackerel fillets (shin and bones removed) with one part cream cheese, season with salt, pepper and lemon juice and it’s done.
Despite the benefits, mackerel is often overlooked by the public. It seems we are put off by its richness, fishiness and oiliness, the very traits that give it such a great character. However, with the right cooking and flavour pairings it is a real treat.
Chef’s Tip: What to look for when buying mackerel – mackerel is a comparatively sustainable fish though the Marine Conservation Society recommend only buying line-caught UK landed mackerel where possible and eat it only occasionally.
Mackerel spoils quickly which, in years gone by, has given the fish a bad name. Ideally it should be eaten on the day it is caught, unless it is frozen, smoked or pickled. Look for a firm, almost rigid fish with clear eyes and a shiny body.
www.thenewportrestaurant.co.uk
