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Food column: Rhubarb is a sure sign spring is here

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Anna Lamotte, who runs Guardswell Farm and Guardswell Grows with her sister Kirstin, tells us why we should be paying attention to rhubarb this season and gives a recipe of how to use it in a delicious dessert.

A fools’ spring. Of epic proportions. Perhaps an anomaly, or perhaps a forbearing of springs to come as the climate changes – are we to live with colder, drier springs year on year?

Up on the hill at Guardswell, the Kailyard garden erupted with growth a couple of weeks ago – the grass sprang into action, flowers of bulbs tentatively stretched, yawned and opened their petals wide.

Young, neon sweet cicely poked its furled fronds through the warming soil. Then the snow came, the minus 5 temperatures, and the lambs in the field shivered with confusion.

Anna Lamotte, left, and her sister Kirstin.

We start this week with a new member of Guardswell Grows – Victoria, our new head grower. Which is serendipitous, considering the recipe of choice at this time of year (Victoria is also a variety of rhubarb).

An afternoon treat is required for the team hard at work planting and harvesting for the Guardswell Grows Farmstand – situated at the end of the drive – an honesty-box providing our surrounding community with a local, sustainable and nutritious shopping option.

Alice Waters, a Guardswell hero, campaigns for both real food education, as well as running Chez Panisse in California. Here is our little take on her intentionally rustic rhubarb galette.

Rhubarb Galette

Blitz 200g white flour, a pinch of salt and 170g butter (1cm cubes) in a food processor, then add 80ml ice cold water whizzing again for 5 seconds, and then gently and quickly form into a ball. Roll into a 30cm round and leave to chill in the fridge.

Chop 500g of rhubarb into 5cm batons (keep the offcuts) and mix with 120g granulated sugar plus the zest and juice of an orange – leave for the flavours to meld.

Arrange rhubarb onto your pastry circle, and roughly fold in the edges around the rhubarb. Brush with melted butter and sprinkle 50g of caster-sugar atop. Place in fridge and heat oven to 220ºC (200°C fan). Pop into an oven and after 10mins drop temperature to 200ºC (180ºC fan) for 30 or so more minutes.

Simmer 50ml water and 50g sugar together with any rhubarb offcuts and once your “galette” is cool, brush this glaze over the top. Accompany with Joe-Lato (they’re delivering!!) and enjoy!


More in this series…

Summer herbs will remind you of warmer weather all through winter

Springtime is here and that means there is wild garlic to be found