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Poppy Seed, Callander (38/50)

By Kerry Moores

February 26 2017, 4:09pm

Just as I love a bargain or a sale, I also love a secret discovery – finding somewhere new that is not run-of-the-mill and not widely known about but that exceeds expectations. When out and about in Perthshire at the weekend, we happened upon just that at Poppy Seed. Not to be judged by the rather special avocado bathrooms or kitsch decor but rather by the charming service and great passion and effort being taken to produce modern and interesting food.

Although part of Poppies Hotel, the restaurant has been under separate and new management since the beginning of February. Veronica and Csaba are a Hungarian couple who have been making waves with their food at the tearoom at Brig O Turk and have now branched out into Callander where they are spreading their charm and teasing out a traditional hotel menu with a few modern twists.

When approaching the hotel, it was not obvious that the restaurant is open to the public but on entrance, the welcome was balmy and we enjoyed an aperitif in the cosy bar wondering at the selection of over 100 whiskeys. We were greeted as old friends by Veronica whose excitement for her new venture was palpable. We felt instantly relaxed and this was a feeling that would not leave us for the entirety of the evening.

The menu was not vast but still a pleasure to read and Mr Kerry and I negotiated our choices so that we could try each others, always a winner as long as he is conservative with his forkfuls of mine. He went for the pork cheek starter as he was particularly interested in the accompanying hamhock croquette which would have made a starter in itself as its deep-fried crunch gave way to flaky meat. The rich cheek provided another level of texture and flavour and the classic companion of apple puree set the dish of well.

I chose the wood pigeon as I don’t see it on a menu often and I enjoy its gamey flavour but am always reassured there won’t be too much of it. This seared breast was served very pink and was incredibly tender. It came with a beetroot puree which was fairly bland but the pickled beets added a zing; along with the blackberries this made a very pretty dish – care had been taken with the presentation of both starters making them a feast for the eyes as well as the palate.

Mr Kerry’s main course was the chicken supreme. When it first arrived, I was worried that it would be dry as there was only a drizzle around the edge of the plate but no jus or gravy to speak of. Mr Kerry assured me however that it didn’t need it as the meat itself was so moist. The black garlic was indeed very black and added an enjoyable charred contrast.

I opted for the sea bass which was the best bass I have had in a while. It was modest but chunky in contrast to the wafer thin fillets available in the supermarkets these days and I thoroughly enjoyed the pillow of squid ink risotto beneath it. The roasted baby peppers and pepper puree really lifted the dish and I was very happy with my choice.

Poppy Seed strives for quality over quantity and there wasn’t a morsel left on either of our plates. It is not often I mention the wine – mainly as I am only just enjoying the odd glass again following 9 months of enforced abstinence – but the bottle of Hungarian red we quaffed was really rather delicious.

Poppies is a traditional hotel and the decor is dated, the atmosphere is quiet, relaxed and cosy and the hospitality is charming. What isn’t as old fashioned though is the food and although you will find the classic cured salmon starter and steak and chips main, there are also a few surprises and I hope that Csaba continues to exercise his creative flair.