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Cafe Circa, Abernyte (41/50)

By Kerry Moores

November 16 2017, 8:12am

When I’m home with my grandparents or Christmas decoration shopping with my mum, then lunch in a garden centre or the like feels cosy and fitting. Good cake, a jacket potato and a decent coffee and everyone’s happy.

When a friend suggested meeting her for lunch at The Scottish Antiques and Arts Centre in Abernyte, my mind conjured up the same images. I had limited expectations and I am thrilled to say that I couldn’t have been more wrong. This week, I discovered a hidden diamond amongst the Perthshire antiques.

I have visited Abernyte a few times but haven’t ever stayed for lunch. Even when I arrived this week, I saw it as a lovely way to spend an hour or two but did not envisage a gourmet experience.

I was there early so took the opportunity to look around the Aladdin’s cave of treasures. I could get lost in that place for days.

The bistro itself does have its own dining area, although if customers prefer, as we did, there are also tables available on the mezzanine level overlooking the fabulous interiors for sale.

As I’d anticipated, cakes were on display but as I walked past the specials board I certainly did not expect to see a pulled beef Wellington on offer and I could feel my taste buds start to twitch in anticipation.

Once seated, I looked at the main menu and was so very pleasantly surprised. Those customers who stop at the bistro for a soup or sandwich are in luck as there are some tasty sounding options such as Scottish poached salmon or topside of beef. Those looking for something a bit different, however, are the ones in for the real treat.

Once again, due to a friendly ribbing, I resisted the urge to order my standard goats cheese starter and instead opted for the pigeon salad. A dainty dish arrived with dressed rocket leaves speckled with sesame seeds and dotted with orange segments. Nestled on top were strips of perfectly crisp pancetta and an expertly pan-fried pigeon breast: juicy, plump and earthy.

The dish was simple and delicious. The sweetness of the fruit perfectly balanced the nutty seeds and gamey meat. This was not a sweaty jacket with shop-bought coleslaw, this was something very different.

My friend started with the chicken liver pate. Not content with serving it with plain old oatcakes, these beauties were smoked, giving the cool, rich pate another dimension. The starter was simple but the quality of the ingredients shone through.

After seeking guidance from the delightfully cheery and chatty waitress, I chose the shallot and sweet potato tarte tatin for my main course. The dish that arrived was fabulously attractive. The chunky tart, made up of whole caramelised banana shallots, slices of sweet potato and walnut halves, was just delicious.

Each element held its own distinctive flavour and having been baked together with the pastry base, melded to form a winning combination. Not only was it incredibly tasty but it was topped with dressed leaves, crumbled blue cheese and crunchy raw carrot and drizzled with spikes of colour to create a truly memorable dish.

I love it when I am just as drawn to the vegetarian option as the meat and fish varieties as it shows real thought and care has been taken to ensure all customers get the same level of gastronomy. No token mushroom risotto here.

Our other main course was the fish pie. Although it looked like an ordinary potato-topped pie, the filling was far from the overly-rich standard creamy sauce but was packed with chunks of fish and spiked with capers and gherkins, ensuring a full flavour. The salad garnish had been banished in favour of proper broccoli.

At first glance of the menu, I had readied myself for three courses. Having only just finished my tart though, I was stuffed and knew that ordering anything else would have been a waste. This was a crying shame as ever since I left the premises, I have been dreaming about the warm bread and butter pudding with maple custard. My waistline thanks me for resisting, my gluttonous taste buds certainly do not.

My friend and I came up with the cunning plan of having another look around the shop and then returning for dessert but even after another browse, my jeans were struggling to contain me.

The revamp of the bistro menu has been brought about by Carl Sullivan, former executive chef of The Glasshouse, Doll’s House and Grill House in St Andrews. He has injected life, flavour and gastronomy into the cafe and has made it an excellent stand alone lunch venue. The fact that it is contained in the eclectic surroundings of the antiques centre does indeed add to the charm but it certainly doesn’t need it as a selling point.

When I return, I will do so after starving myself at breakfast and having shared a lift with friends, in order to enjoy a glass or two of something with lunch because that bread and butter pudding is now top of my “must devour” list.