Home Lifestyle Food & Drink Restaurant Reviews

Uisge, Murthly (38/50)

By Kerry Moores

January 13 2018, 8:00am

Uisge.

When the turkey curry has been popped in the freezer and all other leftovers have finally left the fridge, it’s time to get off the sofa and eat something that doesn’t contain dried fruit or sausage meat, especially now that only the orange creams are left in the chocolate box.

I would love to say that January is my detox month but I have a wee trip with the girls coming up in a couple of weeks so that’s clearly not going to happen and there’s no point being good now only to ruin it all then. Maybe I’ll be good in February, unless I can think of another excuse before then.

I had heard good reports about a little place in Murthly so decided to take a frosty drive to check it out. Unfortunately, the day I chose was incredibly icy and I fell head over heels in the car park so my lunch from there on in was enjoyed with wet jeans and a bruised backside. I arrived at 12.15 for an early lunch and was pleasantly surprised to find four tables already seated.

Uisge is a wooden chalet with a lovely winter cabin feel to the interior. Although lots of wood, stone and tweed have been used in the decor, the large single room remains really bright due to the contemporary skylights adorning the vast vaulted ceiling. The place is clearly child friendly as demonstrated by the lovely little play area outside and high chairs inside. This would be a great place to bring the whole family as the atmosphere is casual cosy and relaxed.

We selected from the all day dining menu and started with the calamari and potted hot smoked salmon. I was delighted with my choice of squid which was chunky and non-chewy. The coating had clearly been applied in-house and although it looked pale in colour, it was crispy and had been seasoned well. In my opinion, the pickled vegetables didn’t need the addition of all spice which gave it a slightly sickly taste and would have been fresher without – but that’s just my taste. Overall, I was thrilled with this crunchy creation.

The potted salmon was served in its own little Kilner jar atop a wooden board with bread and a salad garnish. The fish was chunky and laced with sprigs of dill, giving it a punchy flavour. I liked the thick layer of butter on the top which needed to be penetrated in order to get to the good stuff and I appreciated the fact that the dish was rustic. It was slightly on the dry side and could maybe have benefited from an accompanying chutney or horseradish cream but the flavour was really lovely.

I went for another fish dish as my main as I have eaten so much meat over the festive season, I’ve gone off it for a while. My sea bream was pan fried to crispy-skinned perfection. The white flesh was moist and took little persuasion to detach from the skin which was so golden and crunchy I was tempted to eat that too.

The bream was perched on top of a neat pile of crushed skin-on potatoes which were made very moreish due to their high butter content. Flecks of parsley made an attempt at countering but really the potatoes were fabulously rich. The attractiveness of the dish was enhanced greatly with the drizzle of red pepper coulis around the outside of the potatoes.

There was so little of the coulis though that I actually had to smear it with my finger in order to get a taste of it. What little there was was nice but it was a shame there wasn’t more as the bream and potatoes would really have come alive with one more dimension. This was by far the most expensive dish on the menu but I was presented with a generous fillet and a half of bream. The rest of the menu is very reasonably priced.

Our other main was a classic mac and cheese served with salad garnish and garlic bread. This must be one of the greatest comfort foods which is so often ruined by synthetic looking, orange-coloured cheese. I am pleased to report that this version was pale in colour, just like cheddar should be. The macaroni was cooked without sticking together and both the sauce and cheese topping were generously portioned.

There were no surprises with this dish and nor would we have wanted there to be. It was a very good, smooth, silky cheese sauce. The salad was more than just a token and had a nice crunch and the garlic bread was no a generic bought-in variety which was nice to see.

The food at Uisge is rustic, generous and wholesome with some great flavours. The cosy, warm atmosphere is made even more cheery by the smiley staff who clearly enjoy working there and are incredibly friendly.

Next time, I’m going for the burger with a side of courgette fries as both looked particularly good as they drifted past our table. I would be as happy coming here with a group of mummy friends and kids for a sandwich and coffee as I would to come for a casual dinner with Mr Kerry and I look forward to returning.