Sgor Mor, Braemar, Cairngorms
It’s often the case that the best views of the biggest mountains come from their lower neighbours, and Sgor Mor is a perfect example.
Sitting to the south of the main Cairngorms massif, this Corbett’s long rooftop provides the walker with an in-depth perspective of the corries and passes which define and divide these mountains.
It may seem an anomaly that this hill bears the name Sgor Mor – big peak – while being a more modest resident in a land of giants, but the term is likely to reference the granite tor which sits at the western end of the ridge, ie. the big rock.
It goes without saying that this is a walk best saved for a clear day to catch the long views at their finest. There is a sting in the tail, however. Although the rewards are commensurate for three-quarters of the walk, the final descent is one to be endured rather than enjoyed. But more of that later.
I set off along the track in the direction of White Bridge after the early rain had blown through, leaving dramatic skies, blue with white puffs directly overhead, towering piles of threatening black on the high horizon to the west.
Once out of the trees, there’s a grand feeling of space as you walk along the line of the Dee, a landscape stretching off unfettered into the distance, the stony remains of old townships to the south of the water.
A cairn just before the bridge marks the start of a path heading up the east bank of the river, a series of lively little cascades dropping over rocky ledges providing a dramatic soundtrack for the entrance to Glen Dee, the Munros of Beinn Bhrotain and Monadh Mor dominating the forward vista.
A couple of kilometres further on, it was time to leave the path and head right over open ground. The angle is gentle, easy heather ground with the aim to keep right of the prominent rocks of Sgor an Eoin. Soon, the main target is in sight.
The summit is marked by a large cairn sitting atop a long granite wedge. It must be one of the most awe-inspiring viewpoints in the country, the northern skyline packed with Scotland’s finest.
There’s the bulky conglomeration of Beinn Bhrotain and Monadh Mor, then the outrageous black pyramid of the Devil’s Point with Cairn Toul and mighty Braeriach beyond. In between the Lairig Ghru and the Lairig an Laoigh there’s Ben Macdui, Carn a’ Mhaim and Derry Cairngorm. And the mountain line continues all the way east to Beinn a’ Bhuird and Ben Avon.
It’s hard to drag yourself away, but the consolation is that a variation of these views will be with for the next four kilometres on the high-level walk along to the subsidiary summit of Sgor Dubh.
Before you leave Sgor Mor, however, it’s worth taking a look at the large rock to the right of the cairn which has two circular holes that have been scoured out over the centuries by wind and rain.
The weather started to close in on my walk east, but although some of the northern aspect was lost in grey, I merely felt a few drops of rain and the views ahead and to the right remained unaffected. This was localised weather in its purest form.
I reached the trig pillar summit of Sgor Dubh, sunlight glinting on the eastern half of the Cairngorms, and then began my descent. It started off fine, long strides over softer ground, good progress. But the lower I got, the deeper and more awkward the heather became. Apart from reversing the route from Sgor Dubh, there no escape I’m afraid.
I have come off this hill a few different ways over the years and none has proved particularly pleasant. The only thing to do is plough on and try to remember that what has gone before is well worth the trials of the final quarter.
ROUTE
1.    Exit car park and turn right. When road starts to swing left over bridge, continue straight ahead past metal barrier on estate track (signed as Right of Way) and follow for some 4km to White Bridge.
2.    Don’t cross bridge but instead take path (cairn) on east side of river past series of cascades at Chest of Dee.
3.    After about 2km, leave path and take direct line north, aiming to right of prominent rocks of Sgor an Eoin and up to rocky summit of Sgor Mor where there is a large cairn.
4.    Leave summit to head east passing over one top (744m) and continue to Sgor Dubh which has trig pillar and cairn.
5.    Descend on a line south-east trying to keep as much height as possible before dip and rise to top of Carn an ‘lc Duibhe.
6.    Work your way down heather slopes and scattered trees, passing through gate in fence, to reach White Bridge track. Turn right and follow back to parking.
INFORMATION
Distance: 16km/10miles
Ascent: 520m/1705ft
Time: 4.5-6.5 hours
Grading: Tough but rewarding day on ridge with superlative views of Cairngorms range for hillwalkers with good fitness and relevant skills. Estate tracks and good hill paths for most of the walk, but the final descent is pathless through heather and although short may test your patience! Dogs under close control for ground nesting birds.
Start/finish: Linn of Dee parking (Grid ref: NO 062897), charges apply.
Map: Ordnance Survey 1:50,000 Landranger Map 43 (Braemar & Blair Atholl); Ordnance Survey 1:25,000 Explorer sheet OL57.
Tourist Information: VisitScotland, Ballater iCentre, Station Square, Ballater, AB35 5QB (Tel 01339 755306).
Public transport: None to start, buses to Braemar from Aberdeen.
