The tiny car-free island of Easdale in the Firth of Lorn is one of the most unique places in Scotland, as Gayle Ritchie discovers…
A rusty wheelbarrow stacked with suitcases and shopping bags trundles along the grassy track, followed by an inquisitive Jack Russell.
Locals are out and about in their gardens, walking their dogs and chatting. At every turn, there’s a smile and a hello.
This is life on Easdale Island. With no cars or roads, the wheelbarrow is the official mode of transport and dogs, cats and other animals (and children) are safe to run free.
The journey here is an adventure, crossing the Atlantic from the mainland over a humpback bridge onto Seil Island, and then taking a small passenger ferry, summoned by pressing a buzzer.
The last time I visited was on a cold, wild wintry night and the wind was so strong and the waves so high that I feared the ferry wouldn’t come.
To my joy (I’d driven all the way from Angus), the ferry – pretty much a fishing boat – appeared out of the darkness and spirited me across the water to another world, far from the rat race.
That was when I fell in love with the tiny rocky outcrop that is Easdale Island and promised to return in the spring.
This time, the sea is like glass and the three minute journey across allows me to drink in the stunning views of this magical place.
It’s hard to believe the island was once the centre of a thriving Scottish slate industry until 1881, when a huge tidal storm flooded the slate quarries, forcing them to be abandoned.
Everywhere you look, there are echoes of the island’s past – the deep quarries, now filled in with clear water and linked together with slate spoil, dilapidated slate buildings, and even the island’s hill looks to have been sculpted by quarrying.
The population, which peaked at around 500, dwindled to a handful in the mid-20th century, and today, it stands at around 70 permanent residents.
It may be a small island but there are plenty of opportunities for exploring. A stroll to the top of the 38m hill affords spellbinding views of the Firth of Lorn, Mull, the Garvellachs, Scarba and beyond.
Below, the tightly-packed cottages of Easdale are picture perfect and with no rumble of cars to destroy the peace, the only sound is the crashing of waves on the unforgiving shores.
The award-winning Puffer Bar and Restaurant is the hub of the community, offering fabulous locally sourced food and drink and entertainment and laying on hugely popular themed food nights.
Just last year, Florence and the Machine pitched up on the island to film a music video and drafted in locals as extras. Other celebrities to visit include wine expert Oz Clarke and actor Hugh Dennis.
If you fancy a sea adventure, Seafari offers a wealth of boat trips, as well as expeditions to Corryvreckan, the world’s third largest whirlpool.
I book myself onto a Corryvreckan wildlife trip and am spoiled with blue skies, calm seas and sightings of porpoises, seals, sea birds and a sea eagle’s nest.
The whirlpool lies between the islands of Jura and Scarba and is known for its fierce water.
Tides from the east and west of Jura meet off the northernmost tip of the island where Corryvreckan is located, funnelling in to the spot at great force. An underwater basalt pillar known as The Old Hag then forces the tidal water upwards, as the water smashes off the sides of the channel, resulting in the whirlpool.
Passing Jura, the skipper tells us the story of how Corryvreckan was created – by a witch seeking revenge. Whether or not you believe that is another story.
As we approach, excitement builds when a mini whirlpool puts our boat into a spin. “That’s nothing,” declares the skipper, telling us that now is not the time to experience the mighty Corryvreckan at its best (better to come during big spring tides).
Back on dry land, I drop into The Puffer for coffee and a chat with owner Keren Cafferty.
She and her partner Mike moved to Easdale in 2006 – just as The Puffer was closing down. “It was a big loss to the community and we decided to take it on ourselves,” she says.
“It needed a complete renovation but we had tremendous community support and reopened in 2008. “I love being part of a small yet vibrant community. And I love how mother nature has begun to reclaim the island, softening the scars of the industrial heritage that sustained it for many years. Walk round the island and you have the most spectacular views out over the Atlantic, with ever changing skies and seas. We can be at the mercy of the weather, often battered for days with winds so strong you can hardly stand up. Yet in the summer, the sea can be like glass and the tranquil waters of the flooded quarries make amazing swimming pools.”
Keren’s hope is that more families will come to live on the island and set up businesses. “Easdale could very easily have become an abandoned island like its neighbour Belnahua but it continues to flourish mainly because of the community effort,” she tells me.
“It’s too easy for houses to be sold and end up as holiday homes. It’s so nice to see lights on in the houses in winter, rather than rows of them sitting in darkness.”
Later in the day, I meet up with Duncan Smallman, who runs Slate Islands Seaweed. We explore what he calls the “edible seashore” on a fun foraging foray which involves learning about the inter-tidal zone and tasting seaweeds. My favourite is the incredibly garlicky tasting pepper dulse.
A major highlight of the weekend is the seafood buffet laid on by The Puffer. It’s a taste sensation, with everything from creel-caught langoustine to lobster, oysters and hot smoked salmon, with a scrumptious key lime pie to finish off. Fresher fayre you couldn’t hope to find.
The evening continues with music from Dundee-based bluegrass band Wire and Wool in the community hall. It’s a rip-roaring jig and sing-along, with folk enjoying blistering renditions of old favourites, plus their own material.
After a nightcap at The Puffer, I head to bed. I’m staying with a friend who’s lucky enough to live on the island but there are seven cottages run as holiday lets, plus an Airbnb property – and a B&B back on the mainland at Ellenabeich.
The next morning, I get up early and stroll round the island. I stumble on the site where the world famous stone skimming contest takes place and even contemplate taking a dip in the clear quarry pool. Alas, I forgot my swimming costume and I wouldn’t want to scare anyone – or be arrested.
It’s with some degree of reluctance that I prepare to leave this glorious, special place. As I board the ferry, I glance back and pledge to return again soon. I agree with Keren – Easdale is a little piece of heaven by the sea.
Info
Easdale Island is 16 miles from Oban. If you’re after a souvenir, then take home a few pots of The Puffer’s award-winning chutneys, jams and preserves. These feature in many of the restaurant’s recipes and are out of this world. They also produce hampers, which boast The Puffer’s own range of preserves, cakes and fudge. www.pufferbar.com
There’s also a fantastic folk museum on the island. www.easdalemuseum.org; www.slateislandsseaweed.com; www.seafari.co.uk
