Chris Hutchinson enjoys a luxury cruise taking in Scandinavia and the Baltic states
The jewel in the Baltic crown and Russia’s most European city, elegant St Petersburg was Tsar Peter the Great’s “Window on the West”.
I had been longing to go there for many a year so when the chance to enjoy a cruise exploring some of the great Baltic and Scandinavian cities came up, I jumped.
The cruise, hosted by Fred Olsen, included Sweden and Denmark, plus Estonia, Latvia and Russia – with St Petersburg as the highlight.
The itinerary immediately appealed, and with the help and knowledge from the tour staff, we booked a series of excursions.
Leaving from a UK port has many benefits, including extra luggage allowance and speedy embarkation.
After two sunny days’ sailing, we entered the Swedish Archipelago, a group of 30,000 islands, our ship Balmoral weaving through a scenic four-hour passage.
Arriving in Stockholm, a panoramic city tour took in the highlights. Strolling around the oldest district, Gamla Stan, you absorb the heart and antiquity of the city.
Sailing back through the islands, a large group of swans simultaneously rose flapping their wings – a Swedish goodbye or a swan song.
A day at sea allows you to enjoy Balmoral’s amenities and activities or be lazy like me, with a good book enjoying the tranquillity of open space.
At Tallinn, a medieval town in Estonia, our walking tour was a great way to soak up sights and sounds of this enchanting place, with narrow cobbled streets, secret court yards and fairy-tale towers. You are entertained by troubadours and minstrels singing and playing traditional songs in authentic dress, creating an atmosphere from a bygone era.
Stalls selling hand knitted clothing and amber (known as Baltic gold) are sold at keen prices. A lunch of pork, cooked Estonian style, is a culinary delight and including local beer was great value at £10 per person.
The next morning, with great anticipation, we arrived at St.Petersburg.
Two names are synonymous with this extraordinary city, rulers Peter and Catherine the Great, whose influence dominated Imperial Russia and are still evident today. We made the most of our first day, with tours of Peterhof Palace and the Hermitage.
Entering Peter the Great’s Palace, we visited state rooms, including the opulent throne room, oak study and grand ballrooms.
At 11am, the resounding anthem of St Petersburg is played and from the palace terrace you see the stunning avenue leading to the Gulf of Finland. The grand cascade erupts with three waterfalls and 64 fountains fed by underground springs, and 37 gilded statues watch over this breathtaking sight.
Lunch in a typical Russian restaurant started with vodka tasting. It was fun to see the faces in our group, ranging from surprise to delight! Courses of local recipes were consumed with fellow travellers’ approval. Sampling the local beer, I was tempted to refill my glass, but I wanted to take in everything on our next stop.
The Hermitage, located imposingly on the river bank, houses more than 2.8 million works of art. Entering through the Winter Palace, you are immediately in awe of its exhibits, rooms full of Rubens, galleries of Goyas. You gaze at master pieces by da Vinci, Michelangelo, Rembrandt and many more great artists.
In the evening, we were taken to the Nickolaevsky Palace, featuring a traditional folk show. Here we were entertained by musicians, singers and dancers, each routine reflecting different regions of Russia, with costumes to match.
During the interval, Russian Champagne, vodka, caviar and canapés were served generously. The show ended with a rousing Cossack theme.
Arriving at Catherine’s Palace, its turquoise, white and gold facade, adorned with sculptured figures, glistened in the sun. Room after room reflected Catherine’s passion for fine furniture and art, including the Hall of Light and the amazing Amber room, its tones ranging from lemon to dark red. Afterwards, we enjoyed the beautiful gardens.
The city’s highlights tour captures the most significant sights of St Petersburg, from the main thoroughfares, lined with palaces and statues, to Vasilievsky Island, where the Cathedral of St Peter and St Paul is guarded by the fort. Dominated by the majestic St Isaac’s Cathedral, with its golden dome, St Petersburg is an unforgettable experience.
By now, we were half way through our cruise and were being totally spoilt on board- fabulous food and evening shows in the theatre featuring variety not to be missed.
Riga, regarded as the Pearl of Latvia, is characterised by three distinct faces, from 14th Century medieval roots, quality Art Nouveau buildings and 19th century wooden architecture. No surprise that it’s on the UNESCO list.
These contrasting districts make your tour an all-encompassing experience.
We visited the Dome Cathedral, enjoying an organ recital from the sound of almost 7,000 pipes. Meandering round the quaint old town, you become enthralled in its history. For lunch, I had three types of Baltic fish while my wife had meat dumplings, both cooked the Latvian way with a choice of light or dark local beer. I sampled both.
Sailing to Denmark, we had unexpected entertainment when a pod of dolphins appeared either side of the ship, then met up. Oh how they love putting on a show for us humans!
On board, for a nominal cost, we indulged in a traditional afternoon tea, with white glove service and in the evening we dined at The Grill, where the speciality is steak and seafood are to be recommended.
Balmoral had birthed a short walk from Copenhagen’s iconic attraction, the Little Mermaid. Despite three serious injuries, she sits serenely on her bed of rocks.
Legend has it she will have to sit another 197 years before entering the world of humans.
After taking in Copenhagen’s highlights, we arrived at the old charming fishing village of Dragor. We strolled the narrow streets of yellow cottages with thatched roofs, gardens ablaze with Hollyhocks, ending with Danish pastry and coffee served at an old inn.
Our final night in Balmoral’s theatre featured all the artists and dancers in a spectacular show that left us clamouring for more.
This is a cruise offering sightseeing, culture, history, music and an excellent time on board. Visiting Scandinavia and Baltic cities gives the best of both worlds.
info
A similar 14 night cruise with Fred Olsen in 2017, ‘Scandinavian Capitals & St.Petersburg’ departs Newcastle 16TH July 2017(L1715). Calling at: Copenhagen, Stockholm, cruising Stockholm Archipelago, Tallinn, overnight in St.Petersburg, Riga, Klaipeda, Oslo and cruising Oslofjord, returning to Newcastle on 30th July 2017.
Prices currently start from £1,699 pp, based on an interior twin-bedded room, subject to availability, including all food, entertainment on board, and port taxes.
For further information, see www.fredolsencruises.com or call 0800 0355 242.
