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TRAIN TRAVEL: A trip back in time to a magical age

A gourmet dining experience awaits on the Northern Belle.
A gourmet dining experience awaits on the Northern Belle.

Awaiting the arrival of the Northern Belle at Dumbarton Central station, it soon became clear the luxury train has garnered a loyal band of fans, captivated by its genteel excursions that evoke a golden age of rail travel.

Among the well-dressed crowd eagerly anticipating a day out wining and dining amid fine scenery there was much chat of previous trips, sights seen and fine food and drink enjoyed on board.

Of the “first-timers,” some were there courtesy of generous anniversary, birthday or Christmas gifts from family, while others had just decided to treat themselves on the West Highland Lunch excursion.

The Northern Belle has been running tours all over Britain for nearly two decades. Prior to its launch in 2000, the ten former railway carriages were painstakingly transformed to recapture the glamour of 1930s train travel.

Hand-crafted interiors include intricate marquetry panels lining the walls, deep-wool Axminster carpets, moquette upholstery and specially commissioned brassware. Each carriage is named after a British castle or stately home and has its own distinct identity.

Luxury travel reminiscent of a bygone era.

After the claret and cream-liveried train rumbled to a halt in Dumbarton, the stylish tone for the rest of the day was set as uniformed stewards go out and laid short red carpets to welcome passengers.

Boarding the Alnwick carriage, I was shown to a plush upholstered seat at a table immaculately set with white linen, china and cut glass, and invited to peruse the menu and help myself to canapés as glasses of champagne were served.

The West Highland Line has been voted the most scenic railway in the world for the past two years and on the day of my journey was bathed in early autumn sunshine, showing the stunning scenery at its best.

Travelling at a sedate pace, our route took us along the banks of the River Clyde, through Helensburgh, high above the blue waters of Loch Long with superb views of The Cobbler and other southern Highland peaks, and across empty rolling moorland to Rannoch.

Lunch was a leisurely and delicious affair, spanning most of the journey, miraculously produced by chefs working in the tight confines of the train’s kitchens to feed 160 expectant passengers, and served immaculately by stewards clearly well used to the swaying motion of the carriages.

A silver service experience.

First came hot smoked salmon, juniper gravadlax and king prawns, served with horseradish cream and Marie Rose dipping sauce, which was followed by fresh pea soup accompanied by rolls and butter. The main course, arriving as we approached the inland end of Loch Long, was herb-crusted chicken breast with mashed potato, kale, baby leeks, Chantenay carrots and Cheshire cider sauce.

In French dining tradition, the main was followed by the “Great British Cheeseboard” carried from table to table by two stewards offering a selection of cheeses, along with crackers, fruitcake and Cheshire chutney.

And there was more to come, with a tasty white chocolate and blueberry cheesecake with blackberry sauce and cinnamon crumble on the return leg of the journey, before tea coffee and petits fours were served. A choice of quality wines and a wide range of other alcoholic and non-alcoholic drinks were available to accompany the seven-course lunch. Passengers could also opt for a special list with glasses of wine to match each dish.

There was on-board entertainment too, with a versatile musical duo roaming the carriages serenading travellers with guitar, trombone and song as well as a magician amazing them with a range of tricks.

Later, heading home on an altogether less glamorous train, reflecting on a day of spectacular sightseeing, fine food and wine, music, magic and superb service, it was easy to understand why for many who take a trip on Northern Belle it becomes more than a once-in-a-lifetime experience.

Next summer, for the first time in more than 10 years, Aberdeen will be the starting point for one of the vintage train’s special excursions. After leaving the Granite City on Friday August 20, it will call at Dundee and Perth, before heading to Ayrshire to visit to one of Britain’s most beautiful stately homes, Dumfries House.

The trip will include a three-course lunch on the outward journey and a champagne reception at the start of the homeward leg, followed by a sumptuous five-course dinner.

EXCLUSIVE READER OFFER

The Northern Belle operates to various destinations from stations all over Britain. DC Thomson Travel has teamed up with the Northern Belle to offer readers an exclusive package price for the outing. A new departure for 2020 is the Northern Belle Luxury Vintage Rail Tour visiting Dumfries House on Friday, August 20 2020 – departing from Aberdeen, Dundee and Perth stations. The Courier Travel has an exclusive price of £390pp for our readers.

For more information or to make a booking, call 01270 899303 and quote the reference code DCTDUM or book online at www.dcttravel.co.uk/luxury.

Stan Arnaud travelled courtesy of the Northern Belle on the West Highland Lunch excursion, prices for which started at £250-per-person.