Restaurant reviews in The Courier don’t award marks for a room with a view. If they did, the Ship Inn in Broughty Ferry would surely score 10 out of 10.
Dating from 1847, the Ship, as you might expect, has an enviable location on the shore and makes the most of its maritime connections. Designed to have the feel of the below-decks area of a sailing ship, the first-floor Waterfront Restaurant features timber planking on the walls and brass fittings.
The focal point, though, is the huge picture window, which looks over the Tay towards Tayport. On a summer evening, sipping a glass from a bottle of Rioja Reserva (£21.95) with the sun glinting off the waves, it is positively idyllic and the management thoughfully provides a pair of binoculars on the window ledge for diners keens to spot the pod of dolphins that frequent this stretch of water.
While there was no sign of the cetaceans during our visit, there was plenty of evidence of an establishment that knows what it customers want and delivers it in spades.
Unsurprisingly, the menu leans slightly towards fish and I decided to start with a dressed crab salad (£6.25). This was no delicate mound of seafood arranged artistically on a plate but a crab shell crammed full of the fresh and full-flavoured dark and white meat. The mixed salad that accompanied it was equally fresh and appealing.
My husband enjoyed lentil and vegetable soup (£4.65) and, ever the traditionalist, moved on to the steak and ale pie (£10.50). This is a dish he can rarely see past on a menu and he is often disappointed to receive a plate of stew with a pastry lid plonked on top as it leaves the kitchen.
No such complaint here. This pie was, he sighed happily, “the real deal”. A massive portion of tender meat in well-flavoured gravy that had obviously enjoyed more than a passing acquaintance with its flaky pastry cover.
I selected the chicken escalope (£13.50), which was served topped with pesto, tomato and mozzarella. The chicken was moist and succulent and the kitchen certainly hadn’t stinted on the topping.
The dish came with another large helping of salad which was probably unnecessary, especially as we had portions of new potatoes, chips, carrots, peas, broccoli and mange touts to share.
No need to worry about getting your five-a-day if you’re planning a trip to the Ship.
For those less interested in the health benefits of greens, I believe you can tell good chips by the noise they make when bitten into and these scored pleasingly high on the crunch decibel scale.
Portions were more than generous but, being a trencherwoman of many years standing, I polished off the lot.
That should have precluded a pudding but, what can I tell you? we were in the mood to be indulgent and overcome by greed.
The pastry on my tarte au citron (£5.40) could have been crisper but the filling was well-judged and not too sweet. The blackberry sorbet that accompanied it was an absolute delight sharp and fruity and a real palate cleanser.
My husband chose the spiced apple charlotte (£5.40) apple mousse topped with apple and cinnamon glaze, encased in sponge and served with a toffee apple ice cream and was well pleased with his selection.
By the time we’d finished our puddings even the shortbread biscuit that accompanied the coffee would have been a step too far.
The waiting staff offered a warm welcome and were friendly and efficient throughout.
They are plainly used to dealing with a wide variety of customers from families with young children to larger parties of tourists visiting the area on golfing holidays and handled their differing needs with aplomb.
Rating: 38/50
Price: Starters from £4.65; mains from £10.50.
Info: www.theshipinn-broughtyferry.co.uk / 01382 779176.