Gayle Ritchie and her dog enjoy a two-night break in one of Brucefield Estate’s new ‘Schenbothies’, deep in the heart of Clackmannanshire.
There’s something quite magical about toasting marshmallows over a firepit in the middle of a forest.
I hear an owl hoot, a cow bellow, and then some mysterious creature scampers by – perhaps a hedgehog, badger or pine marten.
I’m enjoying my sticky, melting treats in the heart of Brucefield Estate, on a cold, frosty evening, along with a warming glass of red wine.
I’m just a few feet away from my super-cosy ecolodge, or “Schenbothy” as estate owner Victoria Bruce-Winkler calls it.
Victoria is on a mission to regenerate her family’s 700-year-old estate with the focus on eco-tourism, history and the environment.
Her group of shiny new Schenbothies, so named, because they’re situated in the medieval barony of Schenbothy, are the latest innovation.
Plonked smack bang in the heart of the vast Clackmannanshire woodland, they’re a haven for nature lovers, and perfect for short (in some cases, romantic) breaks. I’ve brought along my Labrador, Toby, aka my best pal, and we’re having a ball.
On arrival, we’re met by the fantastically helpful concierge, Dawid, who shows us how everything works (the state-of-the-art blinds initially defeat me), and he gives Toby a jar of carrot-flavoured dog biscuits.
There’s even a small dog bed provided and, despite being a big boy, Toby is happy to squeeze himself into it in front of the fire.
Self-catering
The Schenbothies opened at the tail end of 2022, offering extra self-catering options along with the estate’s luxury two-bedroom cottage, Slackbrae, which was recently awarded five stars from VisitScotland.
The three timber cabins are named after animals and my one, which is blue, is Mertrick, after the Scots word for pine marten. The others are Brock (badger) and Tod (fox).
They’ve been stunningly designed in a contemporary Scandi-Scots style: the interior is birch ply and the floors are spalted Scottish beech. And yes, they might be tiny, but you’ll find absolutely everything you need inside.
It’s late in the day when we arrive so I’m very grateful when Dawid opens the fridge and shows me a host of fresh ingredients for gnocchi, ready to pop into the oven and enjoy at my leisure. There’s plenty of wood if I fancy firing up the Danish Morso stove, but it’s so warm thanks to underfloor heating that I only use it once.
The bathroom is absolutely gorgeous: I’m not lying when I say it offered me inspiration for my own, which was on the verge of a major renovation at the time of my stay.
It’s decorated with stunning green tiles and has one of those fancy overhead “rain” showers, plus luxury toiletries from sustainable Scottish brand Siabann.
A couple of tiles draw the eye – they boast black and white prints, one of which features the estate’s gamekeeper, Robert Wyatt, in 1925. In it, he stands proudly in front of an ancient oak tree close to the eco-bothy.
And chill…
After I’ve stuffed myself with gnocchi, marshmallows and wine, and taken Toby for a torchlit woodland stroll, I slump down in the lounge.
There’s so much beauty in this room, from the 1956 Arne Jacobsen classic chair, to the gorgeous teal sofa and Skyeskyns rug. There are maps and walking books provided, too, so you can plan where to go and what to do, should you wish to leave the estate during your stay.
Getting up to the cosy sleeping gallery, which boasts a sumptuous super-king mattress on a tatami mat, involves climbing a ladder.
It looks daunting but there’s netting and a bannister to grab on to, so it’s pretty easy… although maybe keep your wits about you if you’ve imbibed a few vinos…
After a fabulous sleep, I get up and open the sliding doors to the south-facing balcony where I sit outside, soaking up the sun and gazing out at the lush meadows.
Breakfast is pretty much laid on, with Dawid having left me a hamper packed with fresh sourdough, jam and honey, butter, milk and eggs.
Once I’ve stuffed myself, I head out to meet Victoria for a chat and wee exploration.
Victoria, who can trace her ancestry back to Robert the Bruce, inherited her family’s 700-year-old estate in 2012, and returned to live here recently.
A biologist and medical writer who previously worked for a pharmaceutical company in Copenhagen, she’s certainly brought some “hygge” to Brucefield, establishing her plan to regenerate its 420 hectares of land.
History and wildlife
As we walk round the estate, which has a wide variety of walking trails and habitats, she tells me what she loves about Brucefield.
She’s super keen to encourage people who want to learn about the history and wildlife of central Scotland to come and stay here.
It’s on the cusp of three counties – Perthshire, Clackmannanshire and Fife – and yet it remains a largely unknown corner of the world.
As we stroll through meadows and woodland, it feels like we’re miles from anywhere, in the middle of the wilderness – we can’t hear any vehicles. And yet, Victoria tells me we’re a mere 40 minutes from Glasgow, 15 minutes from Culross or Dollar, and an hour to Dundee. It’s the epitome of a hidden gem.
You can wander for miles around the estate – up to a ride of “granny” Scots pines, or along to the mystical Witch’s Stone. Alternatively, you can meander past 300-year-old beech trees and a circle of rowans, or hire a bike and head off along the many cycle trails.
There’s also the option to sign up for a guided walk with land manager Graham Hodgson. Depending on the time of year, he leads bat walks, fungal forays, or you can do some tree planting or take part in a pollinator survey.
There are a wealth of farm shops and cafes within easy reach of the estate, and I drive to Saline Shaw for a delicious lunch of soup and a sandwich.
Walks galore
I then head to Rumbling Bridge Gorge for a circular walk which takes me back through the Crook of Devon.
It’s a feast for the eyes here, with tree roots, moss and creeping foliage clinging to rocks while the water surges and boils below.
The following day I take a hike up Seamab Hill, starting from Pool of Muckhart. The views of the Ochils and surrounding landscape are pretty impressive, although it’s mighty windy at the summit.
I pop into Mona’s of Muckhart for lunch, but another recommendation is Polly’s Pantry near Forestmill – they can deliver everything from dinners for two to afternoon tea to Brucefield.
If you prefer to see the sights by pedal power, then you’re in luck because Brucefield have just launched new all-terrain bikes for hire.
Whether you want to see the stars at night, take a forest walk or just get some distance from your daily routine, staying at Brucefield is just the tonic.
- Accommodation: Book a three-night stay in May at Brucefield Estate and you’ll get afternoon tea for two with sandwiches, scones, clotted cream and jam, fruit and cheesecake included.
- Food: Tasty two or three-course dinners and hot food picnics from Polly’s Pantry, starting from £25 per person, can be ordered.
- Prices: All bookings (with minimum three-night stay) made by June 30, 2023, will receive 10% off using code 1WT86 (stays can be taken until December 21, 2023).
- Bike hire: It’s £55 to hire two all-terrain trek bikes for two days. Dinner and picnics are available from £25.
- Information: For more information or to book, see brucefieldestate.scot). Prices start at £132 in the Schenbothies or from £197 at Slackbrae.
- Children and dogs: WiFi is available. Well-behaved dogs are permitted at the Schenbothies for an additional fee. Children over 12 are welcome in the Schenbothies and any age in Slackbrae.
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Book a three-night stay in May 2023 at Brucefield Estate and you’ll get afternoon tea for two.
