Gayle discovers natural beauty, history and enjoys a tranquil wild swim as she explores the Rocks of Solitude.
A mysterious blue door in a stone wall, an 18th Century bridge spanning a deep gorge, tinkling waterfalls, lonely rocks, a folly hidden in the woods and a series of stunning swimming spots.
History, natural beauty, a sense of the magical and bizarre, and a chance to get some (refreshing) exercise rolled into one expedition? Sounds like the perfect day out to me!
Discovering the Rocks of Solitude, on the outskirts of Edzell, is sure to spark the imagination.
There are various ways of reaching these hidden gems.
You can start from the imposing Gannochy Bridge and follow a narrow path high above the River North Esk as it squeezes through a dramatic chasm and weaves amongst mature beech trees.
Alternatively, you can park a few hundred yards away and scramble down a steep embankment.
On a recent Sunday afternoon visit, I chose the latter option, as there were no parking spaces available near the bridge and hordes of people were streaming through the Blue Door, which is, quite simply and enchantingly that – a door in a stone wall painted blue.
It’s the kind of door you might expect to pass through and be transported to a world full of fairies, goblins and who knows what!
It was a hot, sunny day when I arrived and I was desperate to cool off in the river.
Parking in a lay-by beside a very old signpost pointing to the Rocks of Solitude proved a good plan. There was only one other vehicle there and not a soul to be seen.
Before I headed for the water, I checked out Doulie Tower, which sits in woodland overlooking the riverside pathway.
Built in 1796 for Lord Adam Gordon, a son of the 2nd Duke of Gordon, the folly is a great wee picnic spot. There’s an air of dereliction about it, with steps choked with weeds and trees closing in on it on all sides, but it is more than 200 years old and still standing proud.
Heading down to the river, it didn’t take me long to find an absolutely glorious, crystal-clear pool. It was a rather perilous and steep slip and slide down the embankment to reach it but, boy, was it worth it!
I changed into my swimsuit and carefully made my way in.
As I’ve said before about wild swimming, you need to take serious precautions and stay safe if you’re going to try this. My advice is to go with someone, always attach yourself to a tow float, take time entering the water to acclimatise and prevent cold water shock, and get out before you start feeling cold.
Rivers are fraught with risks, whether fast-flowing water, hidden rocks that could cause serious injury or debris that could cause entanglement and, potentially, drowning.
Keeping all these thoughts in mind, I still managed to have a great time floating around in the gorgeous natural pool and emerged refreshed and invigorated.
After basking in the sun in this secluded spot, I headed downstream to gaze at the spectacle of the Rocks of Solitude.
Just wow! Here, the river narrows into a succession of rapids and then, the highlight for me, huge, deep, black, seemingly bottomless, pools. The noise of water plunging through the gorge into these cauldrons is deafening.
It’s a glorious spot to sit and contemplate.
A word of warning – be careful as you approach. I stumbled over a tree root in my excitement to reach the rocks and went flying. I cut my leg, hand, shoulder and bruised my backside. It was not a pretty sight.
Meandering downstream, I passed several fishing beats and a derelict suspension bridge.
The view of the Gannochy Bridge – a gorgeous red sandstone bridge constructed in 1724 and widened in 1796 by Lord Adam Gordon – is spectacular from this approach.
The bridge marks the boundary between Angus and Aberdeenshire, something that’s always amused me. Turn left on to the B966 and you’re in Aberdeenshire; turn right and you’re in Angus. It’s a bit Alice in Wonderland!
Once on the bridge, I crossed the road on to a riverside path at the other side. And again, it felt like walking into another world.
I discovered towering trees, craggy steep-sided riverbanks and seductive pools.
I’d worked up a sweat and decided to take a second swim in one of them which, while shaded, was equally fantastic.
It pains me to say this, but soon enough, the leaves will turn as autumn sets in. And while that means the end of summer (according to the astronomical calendar, summer ended on September 21 but I’m so loath to let it go), it also means a walk through the Blue Door will be absolutely breathtaking.
There are so many big trees, and to see them in their autumn colours – burnt orange, gold and yellow – and to crunch through their leaves is a true feast for the senses.
- Any open-water swim should be risk-assessed, taking into account water temperature and potential hazards. General advice is to never swim alone, wear a tow float and take time entering water to acclimatise.
