Asparagus isn’t an ingredient you’d usually see a whole menu centred around, however, the team at Murrayshall have gone all out for their celebration of the vegetable.
Heading along to the Scone estate’s restaurant, Eólas, pronounced olas, on Wednesday evening to try their special Scottish asparagus celebration menu, I was looking forward to visiting for the first time.
Eólas opened in April and has already managed to secure itself itself 2 AA Rosettes which is a fantastic achievement.
It prides itself on Scottish Highland cuisine served in a casual restaurant setting with a fine dining approach so I was intrigued to experience their service style.
Having heard the venue is very grand I had high expectations for the asparagus tasting menu which is priced at £50 per person, alongside an optional wine flight for £30 per person.
Getting to know Eólas
Upon arriving at the estate I was led down a winding road in my car which took me to the secluded venue surrounded by a golf course and fields as far as the eye could see.
Entering Murrayshall my eyes were met with a very regal design which tastefully nodded to Scotland including the tartan carpets, mahogany furniture and bespoke thistle wallpaper.
I was then greeted by one of the staff members and shown through the venue into the main dining area.
Restaurant manager Christopher made sure to introduce himself to all of the guests which was a nice touch.
The décor of the eatery was simple but elegant in its approach, containing rich blues, purples and black and white.
Colours have a language of their own that speak to our minds and I thought the careful selection of blue, as a trustworthy source, alongside purple, indicating a sense of royalty and class, was very fitting.
The food
At the beginning of the meal, I was handed a refreshing green tea and cucumber drink infused with strawberry, lime, mint and a small amount of honey.
I don’t drink alcohol so Christopher advised this was a substitute for the paired wines and would act as a palette cleanser between dishes.
As the evening went on, the drink grew in sweetness as I moved through the tasting menu.
Prior to the appetiser I was served slices of crunchy sourdough bread and dipping oil containing what appeared to be honey and vinegar.
This additional elements to the oil gave it a sweet but tangy flavour which I was not expecting, but felt it was a welcomed surprise.
Moving on to the appetiser and the first dish of the limited-run menu which ends on Monday (May 23), I was served new season asparagus and duck egg omelette with truffle and parmesan.
After admiring the beautiful presentation I tucked into the starter and found the omelette to be extremely thin and rich due to the egg being duck.
There is always a worry when eating asparagus that it will be too soft, but in this case it was cooked just right and still had a slight bite.
This complemented the truffle flavour which came through but was not overpowering, and the parmesan added a bit of saltiness to the dish.
For my second course I enjoyed creamed asparagus soup with grilled Scottish langoustines.
This dish was simplicity at its finest and has a creamy consistency.
Christopher explained that they try to use all elements of the asparagus and so the soup allowed them to minimise food waste from the meal by using the leftovers.
The langoustines themselves were perfectly cooked and were only slightly salted to ensure the real flavour of the crustacean could be enjoyed.
The main course contained butter poached asparagus with corn fed chicken breast and a confit chicken wing, spinach, potato and chicken sauce.
Chicken breast can quite easily be overcooked and become quite dry, however, in this case the chicken was moist and combined with the spinach, potato and asparagus was an explosion of flavour.
The butter poached asparagus added a richness to the dish, which, accompanied by the light chicken sauce, added a refined finish to each bite.
With many of the elements being softer, the crispy confit chicken wing added a different texture and saltiness to break it up.
Last but certainly not least was the glazed citrus tart with vanilla mascarpone for dessert.
The zesty lemon tart was sweet and had been slightly blowtorched on top to add a thin layer of crisp.
The vanilla mascarpone on top added a creamy texture to the crumbly pastry and the soft lemon centre ensured the dessert wasn’t too sweet.
Sugar coated pieces of zest and drops of lemon curd lined one side of the plate the tart sat on to create a sharp and crunchy sweetness which I adored.
The verdict
I thoroughly enjoyed my meal at Eólas and would highly recommend trying out one of their special tasting menus when they run.
The venue’s main menu in general changes seasonally depending on what grows locally, but I think focusing on an ingredient and showcasing what can be done with it in a variety of way is very creative.
The next menu they look to launch will be a berry menu which will run from July 8 to 11.
With regard to service, food, and overall experience Eólas at Murrayshall deserves every praise and is an experience I will remember for a long time.
Information
Address: Murrayshall Country Estate, Scone, Perth, Scotland, PH2 7PH
T: 01738 55 11 71
Price: The asparagus tasting menu is £50 per person for the special tasting menu. Add an optional wine flight for £30 per person. The menu ends on Monday May 23.
Scores:
- Food: 4/5
- Service: 4.5/5
- Surroundings: 3.5/5
