This week, Graeme Pallister, chef patron of 63 Tay Street, is delighted to see asparagus back on the spring menu
You would be hard pushed not to see asparagus on a menu in any seasonal restaurant throughout May.
We get ours from Sandy and Heather Pattullo of Eassie Farm in Glamis. They will be the first to tell you how inundated they are with chefs and deli owners desperate to get their hands on the first of the new season asparagus.
It’s a short season, particularly in Scotland as our growing conditions don’t really benefit asparagus-growing. It refuses to grow in the rain and doesn’t enjoy temperatures below 10 degrees celsius; but the little we do see is great quality, and in my opinion the best in Europe.
And if growing asparagus isn’t difficult enough, it really begins to deteriorate as soon as it’s picked, so I want to make sure it reaches my kitchen the day after it’s picked, at the latest.
When buying asparagus from a grocer, firstly look for a British stamp so you’ll know it hasn’t travelled too far to get to your plate. I tend to chose stems that are medium thickness with ends that seem moist, not woody and cracked, as this a good sign that they are fresh and full of nutrients.
It has a wonderful flavour, so simplicity in serving is crucial. It goes wonderfully with seafood but tastes equally good on its own, drenched in a fresh farm egg hollandaise sauce.
We sometimes paint cooked spears very lightly with a honey, lemon and black pepper dressing and serve with a good quality cured ham.
Quality asparagus is by no means cheap, but the cost reflects the hard work involved in producing it. If you haven’t tried it yet, do give it a go. It may well be one of those food moments you will look forward to year after year!
Chef’s Tip
All the nutrients travel up each spear to the tip, leaving the bottom almost woody. So before you cook, hold the spear at either end and gently bend it – it should snap just at the point where the asparagus remains at its best. Peel the skin off each end if you wish, then it’s ready to be blanched in a large pot of boiling, salted water. Take it out and place it briefly in a bowl of ice-cold water and serve immediately.
