Solitude, a roaring fire and a large glass of wine.
After spending one of the biggest news months in living memory reporting on the Queen’s death, a weekend like that was absolute bliss for this frazzled news editor.
And Speyside more than lived up to the brief.
My partner and I arrived in Moray on a Friday evening to rolling hills and a stunning sunset, combined with a sharp wind to remind us it’s still the north-east of Scotland after all.
Our accommodation, Hideaway Under The Stars, certainly deserves the ‘hideaway’ part of its name – a hobbit-style hut nestled into the foothills of Ben Rinnes.
Far enough into the countryside to feel like a proper escape – but just a few miles from the village of Aberlour – it is the perfect spot.
In the run-up to our trip I had been studying the Hideaway’s social media channels but it has to be seen in person to be truly appreciated.
From its natural earth floor to a stunning dome skylight (lending itself to the “under the stars” part of the name), plus all the quirky features in between, owners Kim and Mark really have thought of everything.
The welcome pack was a lovely extra touch, including eggs laid by on-site chickens.
Everywhere we turned there was something new to see. My partner’s personal favourite was a classic copy of Lord of the Rings, in keeping with the hobbit theme.
But this is no gimmick, as even before the first turf was cut to create the hideaway, Kim was certain it had to be ethical, sustainable and environmentally friendly.
The Fairy Glen is Hideaway Under the star’s garden
A charmed as we were by the inside, I knew there was much more to explore and we ventured outside to catch the last of the daylight.
We passed fruit trees and enjoyed what Kim tells us were the first plums of the season.
Next up was the aptly named Garden of Eat’n, where all of the food grown is free for guests.
We immediately began planning how to incorporate the juicy tomatoes and leafy spinach into our meals.
A sign directing us to Fairy Glen caught the eye and we followed the path along a stream with a tyre swing even us adults couldn’t resist jumping on.
I knew there was yet more to see and just a minute later we stumbled across a natural pool that looked hugely inviting, if freezing!
We’ll come back in the morning for a swim, we assured each other. What a great way to start the day, we said.
Morning came and we weren’t brave enough to dip in more than a toe, but it gives us an excuse to return in the summer.
I was also intrigued by another hut under construction near the fairy pool, which turned out to be a temazcal sweat lodge, inspired by Mexican heritage – another reason to come back when it’s finished.
The next day, fuelled by a hearty breakfast with ingredients from the garden, we set off to nearby Glenfiddich Distillery, where whisky has been made since the 19th Century.
Unfortunately the production area is under renovation (resulting in a discounted tour price) but it was fascinating to see the barrel store, where the smell of whisky engulfs you as soon as the door is opened.
It finished with a whisky tasting which, as designated driver, I thought I’d have to pass on, but they gave me some samples to take home, which was a nice surprise.
In the evening we ate at the Dowans Hotel in Aberlour, where owners pride themselves on using seasonal and locally sourced ingredients.
Everything was delicious and served by friendly and attentive staff who always made time for a blether.
We could have stayed in the hotel’s whisky snug all night but taxis are hard to come by (make sure to book in advance) so we set off into the night.
On Sunday morning we woke to hammering rain, it’s the north-east of Scotland after all.
They say there’s no such thing as bad weather, only the wrong clothes, but as we had to check out at 10am, we had nowhere to dry off after our planned walk at Linn Falls, so we reluctantly cut our trip a couple of hours short.
The whole weekend really was the perfect escape from reality.
If I had to pick one tiny fault it would be the hideaway’s proximity to the owner’s home, on the same grounds, but we never felt our privacy was compromised and it was reassuring to know they weren’t far away in an emergency.
Travel facts
- For more information about the Hideaway, go to hideawayunderthestars.co.uk
- Hideaway Under the Stars bookings are made through Air BnB from £200 per night
- Glenfiddich Distillery tours start from £20pp, not accounting for the construction discount we received
- More Speyside accommodation and and experiences can be found at visitscotland.com
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