One of the programmes that stimulated my love of food in my teens was Ready Steady Cook.
I marvelled at how they created such incredible dishes from a bagful of few ingredients which only cost a fiver.
Chef, food writer and broadcaster Nick Nairn was a regular on the show and is still a well-known face on TV, appearing on Landward with Dougie Vipond, championing fine Scottish produce.
So, in a way, I feel like Nick has been a regular in my living room over the years.
Therefore, I was delighted when I got the opportunity to visit his “living room” by enjoying a first look at Nairn’s in Bridge of Allan.
Nick and Julia Nairn’s restaurant reopened its doors on July 31, two years after a devastating fire which destroyed the eatery. The space has been rebuilt to the couple’s exact requirements.
The menu at Nairn’s focuses on carefully selected independent produce, herbs and vegetables grown in the polytunnels by Nick and Julia, a refined selection of Scottish seafood and carefully sourced game and grass-fed meats.
Nick and Julia said: “It’s been a long road back for Bridge of Allan, but we are delighted to welcome everyone back.”
Having had a sneak preview of the menu I, too, was excited. Accompanied by my daughter, Cari, we took the scenic route, driving through Fife and Perthshire to Bridge of Allan.
Nairn’s
Nairn’s, Bridge of Allan, is well situated in the town centre on Henderson Street. There was ample parking nearby, although the town was very busy when we visited.
On entering the restaurant we were charmed by the decor. The surroundings are elegant and comfortable, and after manager Robyn had guided us to a table by a window where we could watch the world go by, I felt very chilled out.
And this is one busy restaurant – the tables filled up quickly, but the attentive staff were never flustered and were adept at keeping a close eye on diners’ needs.
The food
The concept of the menu is interesting. They encourage diners to choose three or four small plates to share but do not insist on it.
We did, however, decide to go with three small plates to begin with – monkfish cheek scampi (£9), smoked haddock rarebit (£9) and fried Indian spiced chicken (£9).
Cari wasn’t very keen to sample the smoked haddock rarebit, but I insisted – then I wished I hadn’t. This dish was an absolute delight – perfectly cooked haddock, coated in delicious cheese that was beautifully melted and so tasty. The fish was nestled on new-season tomatoes.
If we enjoyed the rarebit, there were more treats incoming.
The monkfish cheek scampi was next level. Meaty monkfish encased in crispy and crunchy breadcrumbs just melted in my mouth. The tartare sauce that accompanied it was the perfect foil for a simple and extremely moreish dish.
The fried Indian spiced chicken was moist after being coated in lightly spiced breadcrumbs. The chicken had a salty kick and went well with the fresh slaw that accompanied it. If I had any complaint I would have liked my chicken a little spicier – but I’m a chilli lover.
Cari said she thought it was perfect.
The small plates were rather filling, but they had certainly whetted the appetite for the main event.
I had, of course, chosen a fish dish. My eyes lit up when I saw baked cod, peas
a la Francaise, pancetta and trout roe (£18) on the menu.
The baked cod could not have been better cooked – tender and flaking apart with no effort. The creamy white wine sauce was a joy and everything married together on the plate, with the flavoursome peas and crispy pancetta adding up to a mouth-watering main.
Nairn’s are proud of their pizza selection and Cari’s interest was piqued by the margherita (£12) and a side order of triple-cooked chips (£5.50).
She was immediately raving about the pizza and told me – as only an 18-year-old would – that it was “banging”.
A crispy base was topped with sweet and rich tomato sauce, delicious mozzarella, cheddar and fresh basil – this totally delivered on flavour.
I often skip dessert but spied a choux bun (£8.50) served with vanilla
ice cream and whisky chocolate sauce. Cari plumped for hot raspberry souffle and white chocolate ice cream (£11).
The choux bun was cut in two, encasing vanilla ice cream. I quickly covered it in the whisky chocolate sauce and happily ate my way through a dreamy ensemble of pastry, chocolate and ice cream.
Cari’s souffle was light and fluffy, with raspberry goodness melting in the mouth. The light white chocolate ice cream was the ideal accompaniment.
The verdict
Nairn’s is indeed a phoenix from the flames. A menu has been created that you would want to return to and sample different dishes time and again. Their promise to change it regularly will also ensure that it remains fresh.
All the dishes were as we expected them or better. Nairn’s is clearly using the best local produce and proudly so.
The staff are confident, attentive and knowledgeable, led by the bubbly manager, Robyn, who has everything ship-shape.
The restaurant is lovely, too, with a relaxing ambience even when there is a real buzz about the place, as there was on the day of our visit.
Information
A. Nairn’s, 28 Henderson Street, Bridge of Allan, FK9 4HR
T. 01786 831616
W. nairns.co.uk
Price: £82 for three small plates, two mains and two desserts.
- Scores
Food – 4.5/5
Service – 5/5
Surroundings – 4.5/5
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