Has Dundee Italian Don Michele kept its charm at new home?

Don Michele had been on my list for a while.

The family-run business is considered an oldie but a goldie in Dundee, having served classic Italian cuisine from its Perth Road premises in the West End for 21 years.

So, when it announced it was relocating to a larger unit on Exchange Street in the city centre in March to enhance its food offering, regulars were delighted.

Don Michele is now on Exchange Street. Image: Kim Cessford/DC Thomson

I visited with a friend shortly afterwards and loved it. The comforting food, the cosy atmosphere, the friendly service – I was kicking myself for not going sooner.

So, when deciding where to refuel after running my first-ever half marathon (I had to mention that somewhere), Don Michele was a no-brainer.

Don Michele opens its doors on Exchange Street

With its loyal fanbase, I’m not surprised that the restaurant is already full when we arrive at 2.30pm on a Sunday (booking is definitely advised).

I’ve taken my parents with me, and feel nervous about whether they will approve of my choice.

Don Michele has been running for 21 years. Image: Kim Cessford/DC Thomson

My mum, who has over 30 years of experience cooking top-notch meals for her bed and breakfast guests, is notoriously difficult to please when eating out.

My dad, who has over 30 years of experience eating my mum’s food, has similarly high standards.

We get off to a good start with both of them commenting on how lovely our surroundings are as we take our seats.

It’s true. The décor, which features vintage ornaments, Romanesque marble statues and gallery walls, is charming and elegant.

Set against brick-effect wallpaper, there is also a hint of nostalgia about the place.

Even the newly renovated bathrooms, clean and shiny, get high praise from us all.

Knockout starters at Don Michele

But, more importantly, how is the food?

We begin with knockout starters, all of which are generously portioned.

I go for the bruschetta: a rustic rectangle of toasted bread topped with tomatoes, garlic, crisp red onions, mozzarella and balsamic glaze, served atop a bed of rocket.

I loved the addition of fried onions. Image: Kim Cessford/DC Thomson

With the addition of the golden fried onion flakes (they bring texture and saltiness) and balsamic glaze (enter sweetness and sharpness), it’s a dish absolutely packed with flavour.

Mum opts for the fresh mussels (one of her favourite dishes), which come in a sauce made with white wine, garlic, fresh parsley, black pepper, and chilli, served alongside a wedge of lemon and home-baked bread.

She is delighted, enthusing over the large portion (“This could have been my main!”) and perfectly steamed mussels.

These mussels were divine. Image: Kim Cessford/DC Thomson

I’m not normally tempted by mussels, but they smell so good that I don’t protest when mum plops a few on my plate. The deliciously fragrant sauce is rich without being heavy.

Dad orders the calamari, which comes with a zesty garlic mayonnaise and a simple side salad of rocket and tomatoes.

The calamari went down a treat. Image: Kim Cessford/DC Thomson

I can’t help but comment that the fried squid rings look a little underdone (they are very pale), but he says they taste great: piping hot and well-seasoned, with a light and crispy batter.

“Simple but effective,” he declares, clearing his plate. Don’t judge a book by its cover and all that!

Pizza, pasta and more for our mains

Next, after an apology from our waiter who tells me the chef has made my penne arrabiata with tagliatelle instead of penne and asks if that is ok, I tuck into a bowl of steaming tagliatelle arrabiata.

It is more than ok; it is wonderful. The rich and silky sauce is a twist on the classic, with red pesto stirred into the spicy tomato base.

Meanwhile, terrifically tender chunks of onions and peppers, and a handful of fresh greens on top, add substance and variety.

The penne arrabiata. Image: Kim Cessford/DC Thomson

Mum goes for a stonebaked pizza, crowned with tomato sauce, mozzarella, chicken, peppers, red onions and a basil pesto drizzle.

Admiring the thin and crispy base, I suffer food envy once more. It is faultless, she says.

I was envious of mum’s pizza. Image: Kim Cessford/DC Thomson

Dad orders a chicken main. The grilled, butterflied meat, lavished in parmesan, is succulent, he tells me, while the creamy mushroom sauce is delicious.

Served with carrots, broccoli and roast potatoes, it’s once again a plentiful serving. He is very happy.

How was the tiramisu?

Unable to believe how well this is going, I suggest we get the bill before things go awry.

We also order a couple of tiramisus to take away.

Clearly, I’ve tempted fate; we are left waiting for a good 15 minutes to pay up.

Our diligent and friendly server, flying from table to table, appears to be over-stretched. The restaurant is full, and I wonder if they’re a staff member down.

Dad loved his chicken main. Image: Kim Cessford / DC Thomson

No matter, I get up to pay at the bar, and we make our exit.

After hobbling home (no more half marathons for me), I devour my slice of tiramisu with a scoop of vanilla ice cream from the freezer.

It is delicate and fluffy, like eating a cloud. The balance between bitter cocoa and lightly-sweetened mascarpone is spot on, while the sponge layers have only been kissed by a coffee liquor. They retain their light, crumb-like texture.

The verdict

Don Michele has hit the ground running in its trendy new location.

And it’s still just warming up, with a new menu – featuring fresh pasta, more vegetarian options and special party packages – launching on Monday, 19 May.

By the sounds of it, the next 21 years will be just as delicious as the previous 21.