Restaurant review: The Flame Tree Cafe in Dundee

Have you ever eaten a rainbow bagel?

The multicoloured baked good, pioneered by a New York bagel store, went viral after pictures were posted on Instagram in 2016.

It has since been recreated in trendy bakeries worldwide, inspired an entire ‘unicorn’ food craze, and become a regular feature on the feed of social media influencers.

And it is what The Flame Tree Cafe, located on a corner of Exchange Street in the heart of Dundee, is best known for.

The Flame Tree Cafe

I’ve visited The Flame Tree Cafe on a few occasions since I discovered it last year (that gives you an idea of how this review will go) so I was excited to return with my brother last Sunday.

It was raining in Dundee as we headed to the eatery, which is fortunately just a stone’s throw from the city centre where we got off the bus.

Arriving shortly after the cafe opened its doors at 11am, we were greeted by a friendly team of staff who were gearing up for the busy brunch rush.

The eatery is situated on a corner of Exchange Street in Dundee. Image: Kenny Smith/DC Thomson.

As some of the first customers to arrive – The Flame Tree Cafe operates on a walk-in basis – we had our pick of the venue, and decided on a table by the window overlooking Exchange Street.

It meant we could feel cosy and smug as people rushed past with umbrellas, and I had a good view of the mouth-watering sweet treats on display by the counter.

The interior of the cafe, which opened in 2015, is adorned with the native flag of its Australian-born owner Jackie Cannon.

Customers can browse a selection of Australian treats. Image: Kenny Smith/DC Thomson

And with its lime green walls, white panelling and array of lush plants, it manages to feel both cosy and fresh – and wouldn’t look out of place in a Sydney suburb.

There is also an array of Aussie treats to browse by the entrance – including the popular Tim Tam biscuits.

The food

With an all-day brunch menu and all-day lunch menu – and plant-based versions of both – The Flame Tree Cafe caters for a range of tastes and dietary needs, including those avoiding gluten.

As a vegetarian with a penchant for dairy-free milk, I appreciated the variety of options.

There is a menu for “little ones”, too – with child-friendly snacks and babyccinos on offer.

Although much of the cuisine is Aussie-inspired – smashed avocado on toast is a staple in cafes down under – you can also find a classic bacon roll on the menu.

The pesto, tomato and mozzarella ciabatta did not disappoint. Image: Kenny Smith/DC Thomson

To start with, I opted for the pesto, tomato and mozzarella ciabatta (£7) with a cup of soup – Thai carrot and coconut flavoured (£2). My brother went for a sweet chilli chicken wrap (£6) with a pot of the cafe’s signature hash nuggets on the side (£2.50).

I decided to have mine with an iced soy mocha (£4.40) while Cameron chose a deluxe Oreo milkshake (£5.50).

After ordering at the counter, we waited patiently for our food to arrive, as the cafe started to fill up with customers.

Our drinks appeared first, presented beautifully in mason jars with red paper straws. Our eyes widened with delight as we took our first sips. My iced mocha was cool, refreshing and full-bodied. Cameron’s milkshake was thick, creamy, and avoided tasting too sweet.

The iced soy mocha was presented beautifully. Image: Kenny Smith/DC Thomson

The freshly prepared food came soon after. My ciabatta was generously stuffed with melted mozzarella, juicy slices of beef tomato and thick slathering’s of pesto mayo. The bread was perfect – warm, soft and doughy, but crispy on the outside. It came with a handful of salted crisps and an iceberg lettuce salad.

The steaming ‘cup’ of soup – which turned out to actually be quite a large bowlful, was light and naturally sweet with a silky smooth texture. Personally, I would have liked it if the Thai flavours were a little stronger, as I enjoy a bit of heat, but it was delicious nonetheless.

Cameron’s wrap, which also came with a side of crisps and salad, was well-stuffed with meat, sauce and crunchy salad. He said it was moist and flavoursome, and went well with the pot of hash nuggets – of which I pinched a few. The little potato bites tasted like miniature hash browns and had a satisfying crunch.

The sweet chilli chicken wrap with a side of hash nuggets. Image: Kenny Smith/DC Thomson.

Full as we were, we decided to order something sweet to round off the meal. I was temporarily tempted by the glass cabinet of home bakes – which included brownies, scones and flapjacks – but settled on a rainbow bagel with Nutella (£3).

I had been hankering after one since spying it on The Flame Tree Cafe’s Instagram months ago. And what better way to brighten up a dreich morning in Dundee? Cameron went for a Belgian waffle with maple syrup (£4).

We also ordered two more drinks – a breakfast tea with soy milk for me (£3.40) and a peppermint tea for Cameron. (£2.90)

Belgian Waffle with maple syrup. Image: Kenny Smith/DC Thomson

Our desserts arrived within minutes. The rainbow bagel, which is provided by a supplier in London, was vibrant in colour and almost looked too pretty to eat. I admit, before digging in, I was suspicious it could be a matter of style over substance – but this was not the case. Chewy, soft and lightly toasted, the bagel was delicious, and would have paired just as well with a savoury filling.

Cameron’s waffle was equally lovely, and came with a light dusting of icing sugar and a lavish helping of maple syrup. It was warm, crispy and sweet, and he regretted not going for the “double up” option – where you get a second waffle for an extra £1.25.