Up and coming Dunfermline chef Jack Coghill is finally ready to graduate from the “College of Dad”.
The 23-year-old is gradually taking over the reins from dad Bryan and the restaurant that carries both their names – Jack ‘O’ Bryan’s.
It’s home to their signature Iberian-inspired dishes made with local produce using modern techniques.
Jack always knew he wanted to be a chef. Not that he really had a choice, as soon as he was able to help his dad in the kitchen, he did.
At 16, he left school to train at the “College of Dad”. Starting out washing dishes and plating up desserts, he was soon plating up starters and mains too.
“It wasn’t boring, that’s for sure,” smiles Jack.
After turning 17, he travelled to England to train with pastry chef Mark Tilling, winner of the first season of Bake Off Crème de la Crème.
“He trained me on everything to do with chocolate and anything to do with pastry, and my dad trained me on the whole other aspect of kitchen life,” Jack says.
“The advantage of having two people training me really hard on all sections of the kitchen has given me the clear goal ahead of knowing what to do.”
Jack ‘O’ Bryan’s Iberian influence
Following his hard training, young Jack knows exactly what is needed of him to carry the restaurant forward.
It wasn’t always easy to be his father’s pupil, he was pushed hard and worked long days.
“Some days, I’m sure at the time he thought was the most horrific time of his life,” says Bryan.
“Now he understands the reason behind it all. He was pushed to be able to do the things he can do now.
“It’s a duty from chefs my age to make sure the next generation know the skills and work ethic it takes to be successful.
“It’s not the easiest industry, but he understands that the family business has to be consistent moving forward for him to be successful.”
As the family has lived in Portugal and Spain, the Iberian influence is front and centre of their dishes. Jack ‘O’ Bryan’s tapas are popular, featuring small plates of prawn and octopus tacos, morcilla black pudding and burnt ends roast beef.
Mains include roast monkfish and crab gratin, and the Spanish fish supper. The stand out signature dish is Iberian black pig with red onion salsa and sautéed potatoes.
‘The kitchen is not a boring place’
Ever since starting out working with his dad, Jack’s experienced the long and tiring days in the kitchen.
Bryan’s dad even questioned his career choice, wondering why he’d want to spend evenings and weekends at work.
The chef duo agree its one of the most social jobs there is.
“The kitchen is not a boring place to be,” says Jack.
“A lot of people think because you’re stuck in a room, it’s not social. It’s the most sociable job you can have.
“You’re around people all the time, you literally have a second family. It’s a great experience.”
Bryan continues: “Why would you not want to be a chef? I’ve spent 38 years of my life on a Saturday night having the best time.
“It’s 38 years of eating the best, you get the best wines on the planet, so why people wouldn’t want to come into this industry bemuses me.”
Proudly based in Dunfermline
While Covid lockdowns and the current cost-of-living crisis has been hitting the hospitality industry hard, Jack ‘O’ Bryan’s is coping well.
The restaurateurs say people are still going out – but they want a good experience and unique dining concept.
With their Iberian-inspired menu and social way of dining, they find customers are drawn to their offering. Being in Dunfermline is no hindrance either.
Bryan says: “There’s a misconception that you have to be in one of the major cities to be successful in hospitality, That’s really not the case.”
Jack continues: “A lot of people think if you’re not in Edinburgh, you’re not good. That’s sad.
“We’ve plated in Edinburgh, next to Michelin star Tom Kitchin in Leith, and nothing changes because we’re outwith a city.
“Though now we are a city, people should think more of Dunfermline.”
Jack ‘O’ Bryan’s cookbook in the works
With their Chalmers Street restaurant newly refurbished, it’s onwards and upwards for young chef Jack and the family business.
Despite being just 23, his teacher and dad says he holds the skills of someone in their thirties. This means the senior chef can explore other avenues while leaving Jack ‘O’ Bryan’s in capable hands.
After 38 years in the kitchen, he’s developing a cookbook.
“It’s something I’ve wanted to do for a while,” he admits.
“I don’t want to do a cookbook that’s just another cookbook. I always thought if I’m going to do one, I want it to be different, so I’m not going to rush it.
“It’s exciting for me to take a step back, though I still develop the menus and we develop the actual dish together.
“At 40 years, I would like to think that I’ve hopefully got this great project coming together at the right time. 40 years for me, it’s enough.”
He’s not stopped running the “College of Dad” either, Jack’s two-and-a-half-year-old daughter is already helping in the kitchen.
According to Bryan, she’s in training – she just doesn’t know it yet. And it’s working, as she’s already saying “a bit more salt.”
There will always be a space for her in the kitchen at Jack ‘O’ Bryan’s should she want it.
“She’ll be better than both of us together if she becomes a chef, that’s for sure,” smiles Jack.
