Rory MacCrimmon, head chef at the Golf Inn in St Andrews, shares his culinary heroes and favourite foods with Caroline Lindsay.
Q Desert island food?
A Anything game related, I love to cook during game season, so probably grouse or partridge would be my choice.
Q Favourite TV chef?
A Tom Kerridge, taking simple ingredients and just making them super tasty. He evokes a bit of inspiration to improve classics.
Q Favourite cook book?
A The Flavor Bible or Harold McGee’s On Food and Cooking are both great reads in their own right and give a great insight into flavour profiles and the science behind cooking.
Q Favourite ingredient?
A I’m really enjoying sage at the moment – it works well as a sweet and a bitter element to a dish and is especially tasty with chicken or duck.
Q Most hated ingredient?
A Coriander – for me it’s too strong a flavour and tastes a bit like soap to my palate.
Q Perfect dinner guest?
A Stephen Fry, he has a wealth of knowledge and I find him very interesting.
Q Favourite kitchen gadget and why?
A A Thermomix as they make purées and veloutes super smooth, heating and blending at the same time. Also handy to make flavoured oils.
Q Favourite music to cook to?
A I tend to not listen to music when cooking to keep focused, however between service a little bit of 80s hair metal is always a good to sing along to.
Q Perfect menu?
A Autumn menus, the array of meat and vegetables are great that time of year in Scotland.
Q Favourite country for food?
A Scotland, there is so much produce at our doorstep and treated with respect and care can be the best in the world.
Q Favourite chef, alive or dead?
A Anthony Bourdain as he opened the door on kitchen culture with his documentaries and his book Kitchen Confidential is a fantastic read.
Q Favourite culinary season?
A Autumn is a delight for me and August 12 is marked on my calendar as it marks the start of the game season.
Q Salt or pepper?
A Salt for seasoning; in my opinion, pepper is closer to a spice.
Q Favourite herb?
A Thyme or sage as they are so versatile.
Q Favourite spice?
A Pepper as it can bring out a touch of heat in something without being too overpowering, for example a simple whisky peppercorn sauce.
Q Favourite way to cook the humble potato?
A Simple creamy mashed potato, such a versatile product and can be flavoured with many different ingredients to bring something different to a dish.
Q Favourite go-to recipe if you’re in a hurry?
A Soda bread… no proving or waiting just mix and bake…we call it danger bread in the kitchen.
Q Favourite naughty nibble?
A Chips, any chef will tell you there are always a couple left in the bowl and can’t be resisted.
Q Favourite health food?
A Couscous.
Q Ideal picnic dish?
A Cheese, crackers and pickles. No plates needed, just a knife.
Q Ideal BBQ food?
A BBQ duck is very tasty, similarly BBQ banana is nice with just a touch of honey and creme fraiche as a dip.
Q Are you critical of the food when you’re dining out?
A I try not be as much as possible, it’s better to let the chef tell his/her own story through their food. If there is a problem, I understand everyone is human and we all make mistakes.
Q Do you tip in restaurants?
A Always, especially if the service has been good.
Q Top tip for failsafe cooking?
A Temperature control when working in pans or ovens is key to consistency and accuracy.
Q Worst cooking sin in your opinion?
A Not seasoning food or tasting before sending out to a customer.
Roast partridge with baked plum
Ingredients
Serves 2
1 whole partridge (available from butchers)
??? potatoes for mashing
2 slices of black pudding
2 radishes cut in half
½ plum
¼ turnip
Sprigs of sage
2 garlic cloves
Butter
Cream
Beef stock
Salt and pepper
directions
Cut breasts from the partridge crown and season.
Sear in a hot frying pan skin side up (if it’s skin side down first the breast will shrivel up).
Once turned to sear skin side, add a knob of butter, sprig of sage, crush the garlic and add, baste with a spoon.
Give a few minutes of cooking in the pan.
Take off the heat and lightly cover with tin foil and the residual heat will finish the cooking.
Boil potatoes in salt water from cold.
Once cooked strain and add a knob of butter, salt, pepper (if you like), and a small splash of cream and mash up until smooth.
Crumble the black pudding and place it in the oven on a low heat until cooked through and will break up easily.
Thinly slice turnip, add to a pot along with a bit more sage, salt, pepper and lightly cook down the turnip adding water to stop the turnip colouring too much.
Once cooked out, fill the pot halfway over the turnip and also add a splash of cream and a knob of butter.
Once fully cooked with a soft mushy texture blitz with a food processor until velvety smooth, season to taste.
Cut the radish in half for a nicer presentation, refresh in a little water.
Give the radish a little toss in butter and a light season with salt.
Once all the elements are complete you’re ready to plate up and enjoy, serve with a little bit of beef stock or if you feel adventurous use the carcass from the partridge, red wine and some root vegetables to make your own jus.
