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Restaurant review: Stop off at Taste Perthshire in Bankfoot to do exactly as the name says

Chloe Burrell pulled into the A9 stop-off for a plateful of the best produce on offer in the region.

Homemade Thai fishcakes at Taste Perthshire.
Experience local at Taste Perthshire. Image: Kenny Smith/DC Thomson

In 1994, Ronseal launched one of the most effective advertising campaigns in modern history.

So much so, their slogan ‘does exactly what is says on the tin’ is still regularly used almost 30 years on to describe anything that cuts the faff and delivers every time.

Taste Perthshire, on the A9 eight miles north of Perth, certainly talks the talk when it comes to de-mystifying prospective customers with their name.

Though we’d never ventured in, there was only one question we needed answering.

That was whether the team would deliver the flavours we already know the region is capable of producing.

Without so much as a stutter, that question was answered. Yes.

The venue

Taste Perthshire is one of the first things you see when you pull off the northbound carriageway into Bankfoot.

There’s a fuel station, a garden centre, gift and leisure shops, a takeaway and a store selling local food and drink.

Taste Perthshire in Bankfoot.
Taste Perthshire is the destination for local food, drink and products. Image: Kenny Smith/DC Thomson

You can even visit the team’s Highland cows out the back (sadly we didn’t realise this until after we left).

But we made a beeline for the restaurant, located through the shopping area.

It has plenty of space and a clear view of both the outdoor play area and the busy A9.

That being said, you can’t hear a whisper from outside.

Comfortable, cosy and peaceful, the venue has a calm and relaxing feel.

Taste Perthshire in Bankfoot.
The inside of the venue. Image: Kenny Smith/DC Thomson

On our visit, the staff were particularly friendly and everyone we spoke to knew the menu inside out – including the best food to taste.

It may have been 6pm on a weeknight in the middle of the month, but there were more than half a dozen other parties in dining.

It’s clear Taste Perthshire’s target clientele fall into one of two brackets.

Half of those are people who stay locally who are looking for nice a meal out – like us.

The other half are holidaymakers heading north (or back home) who are ready to park up, stretch their legs and fill their bellies.

The team do a good job of balancing the needs of both audiences.

The food at Taste Perthshire

My partner dived into a starter and opted for haggis bon bons (£7.95).

Haggis bon bons at Taste Perthshire.
Haggis bon bons. Image: Kenny Smith/DC Thomson

Both bon bons bore brilliant crispy coatings and were cradled within a wondrous wave of whisky mayo.

It was an instant winner – a modern Scottish staple done right – and a sign of things to come.

I decided to go straight to a main course and chose the chef’s homemade vegetable curry (£13.95).

The chef's homemade vegetable curry
Homemade vegetable curry. Image: Kenny Smith/DC Thomson

It came with all the must-have trimmings – mini poppadoms, a naan bread and mango chutney and spicy onions for dipping.

As you look across at the wall in the restaurant, it is covered in an array of mismatched clocks.

But time stood still when I took my first bite of the curry – it was comforting, warm and fresh.

I was struck by the blended flavours of carrot, broccoli and courgette, with each complimenting each other nicely.

The mango chutney helped to provide a sweet tang and I was not left disappointed with the portion.

Although tempted by the Highland venison pie (£15.95), my partner went for the homemade Thai fishcakes (£16.95).

Homemade Thai fishcakes at Taste Perthshire.
Homemade Thai fishcakes. Image: Kenny Smith/DC Thomson

They were available as a starter too (£8.75) and obviously would have impressed too.

The trio of cakes sat on the crest of a mountain of stir-fried veg.

We were warned the cakes were a little fiery, but the warm glow they provided was perfect.

He had no regrets, it was a mammoth portion and the cakes were bursting with spicy fish.

However, the dessert menu was too tempting to ignore.

The focus on using the ingredients found nearby was as evident there as anywhere else.

We’ll likely opt for the Bankfoot cheesecake and clootie dumpling (both £7.95) next time.

But on this occasion we couldn’t say no to the superb banana ice cream sundae (£7.95) – made with local dairy ice cream.

The banana ice cream sundae.
Banana ice cream sundae. Image: Kenny Smith/DC Thomson

We asked for two spoons and got two flakes – what more can you ask for?

The verdict

Taste Perthshire is owned by married couple Calum and Jane MacLellan.

They took over operations from Jane’s aunt and uncle eight years ago.

Calum told us the focus on local produce extends even to rhubarb plucked from relatives’ gardens.

He explained the meat comes from as close as the award-winning butcher in nearby Stanley.

The fish is all sourced from the east coast of Scotland and the fruit and veg comes from Tayside too.

There’s something to be said for visiting a place named Taste Perthshire and us both picking options surprisingly from the ‘Flavours of the World’ menu.

Certainly that has a hint of irony, but the truth is simply that we’re lucky – where we call home yields amongst the most diverse ranges of food around.

Accordingly, we owe it to our meat, fish, dairy and agriculture sector to wax lyrical about the tireless staff who work in it and what they achieve season after season.

Taste Perthshire does the graft and expertise that workers put in justice and capitalises well on the ever-growing tourist industry in the north of Scotland.

Swing by for a comfortable pitstop, a tasty, hearty meal and service with a smile.

Taste Perthshire information

Address: Taste Perthshire, Bankfoot, PH1 4EB

Tel: 01738 787696

Website: tasteperthshire.co.uk

Price: £49.05 for a starter, two mains, a dessert and a soft drink.

Scores:

Food: 4.5
Service: 5
Surrounding: 4.5

For more restaurant reviews, check out our food and drink section.